Modern planters often carry liquid fertilizer systems to deliver starter, in-furrow, or 2×2 nutrients right when seeds need them most. A properly set up system helps crops establish quickly, improves uniform emergence, and maximizes input efficiency.

But these systems also have multiple moving parts: pumps, manifolds, hoses, meters, check valves, and tips. A weak link in any part of the system can throw off rates or placement. That’s why a clear planter liquid setup checklist is so valuable before you hit the field.

Why Liquid Setup Matters

Types of Planter Liquid Systems

  1. In-furrow (pop-up) – delivers small amounts directly in the seed furrow.
  2. 2×2 placement – fertilizer banded two inches to the side and two inches below the seed.
  3. Over-the-row / surface applied – often used for herbicide or insecticide applications.
  4. Combination systems – run multiple products at different placements.

Each type requires correct setup and calibration.

Pre-Season Planter Liquid Setup Checklist

1. Inspect the Pump

2. Clean the Tank

3. Flush Hoses & Lines

4. Check Strainers & Filters

5. Inspect Flow Meters

6. Calibrate Rate Controller

7. Verify Manifolds

8. Nozzles, Tips & Orifices

9. Pressure Test

10. Safety Gear & Storage

In-Season Daily Checklist

Before each planting day:

Calibration Guide

Accurate calibration ensures gallons per acre match your plan.

Step 1: Know Your Target

Example: 5 GPA (gallons per acre) in-furrow.

Step 2: Collect Flow

Run system with water, catch flow from one row for 1 minute.

Step 3: Convert to GPA

Use this formula: GPA=5940×GPMSpeed (mph)×Row Spacing (in)\text{GPA} = \frac{5940 \times \text{GPM}}{\text{Speed (mph)} \times \text{Row Spacing (in)}}

Where:

Step 4: Adjust

Change pressure, speed, or orifice size until actual GPA = target GPA.

Troubleshooting Common Problems

ProblemLikely CauseSolution
Uneven flow across rowsPlugged nozzle, bad check valve, kinked hoseClean or replace nozzle, check hoses
Low overall pressureWeak pump, clogged filter, air leakCheck pump, replace filter, tighten fittings
Over-applicationRate controller miscalibratedRecalibrate using actual flow test
Under-applicationWrong orifice size, pump too smallInstall larger orifice, upgrade pump
LeaksCracked hose, loose clamp, bad gasketReplace hose, tighten or replace clamp

Placement Tips

Safety & Environmental Considerations

Seasonal Maintenance

Quick Reference Checklist (Printable)

Pre-Season:

Daily In-Season:

FAQs

Q: How often should I replace nozzles?
A: Replace every 1–2 seasons or after 10% wear, whichever comes first.

Q: Can I run fertilizer and insecticide through the same system?
A: Possible, but clean thoroughly between products to avoid residue buildup.

Q: What’s the best pump type?
A: Hydraulic pumps offer steady flow for larger planters. Electric pumps work well on smaller planters or for in-furrow systems.

Q: What about starter fertilizer salt damage?
A: Stay within safe in-furrow rates. Consider using low-salt formulations or move to 2×2 placement for higher volumes.

Setting up your planter liquid system is more than filling a tank and turning on the pump. It’s a careful process of inspection, calibration, and daily checks.

A reliable planter liquid system means healthier seedlings, stronger stands, and less frustration at planting time.

How to properly ground your electric fence for safety, performance, and reliability

An electric fence is only as good as its grounding system. Farmers often focus on energizers, wires, and posts but forget that the fence circuit can’t work without a solid ground return. A poorly grounded fence won’t carry full voltage, won’t deter livestock, and can even damage your energizer.

This guide explains why grounding matters, what materials to use, and the exact steps to build, test, and maintain a reliable ground system.

Why Fence Grounding Matters

How Electric Fences Work

  1. Energizer sends pulses of electricity into the fence wire.
  2. Wire is insulated from the soil and posts (except ground wires).
  3. When an animal touches the fence, it completes the circuit: fence wire → animal → soil → ground rods → energizer.
  4. The shock teaches the animal to avoid the fence.

If the soil is dry, frozen, sandy, or rocky, current doesn’t return well. That’s why grounding must be designed carefully.

Common Grounding Problems

Grounding System Basics

Step-by-Step Grounding Installation

Step 1. Choose a Location

Step 2. Drive the Ground Rods

Step 3. Connect the Rods

Step 4. Connect to the Energizer

Step 5. Test the System

Advanced Grounding Practices

Adding More Rods for Large Systems

Ground Return Wires

Parallel Grounding

Materials to Use (and Avoid)

Seasonal Considerations

Testing Your Ground System

Method 1: Fence Voltage Drop

  1. Short the fence by laying metal rods or wires against the hot wire 300 feet away from energizer.
  2. Measure voltage on fence.
  3. If it drops below 3,000 volts, grounding is likely weak.

Method 2: Ground Rod Test

  1. With fence fully energized, insert a metal probe 3 feet away from ground rods.
  2. Measure voltage between probe and ground rod system.
  3. Reading above 300 volts means more ground rods are needed.

Lightning & Surge Protection

Troubleshooting Common Issues

ProblemLikely CauseFix
Fence voltage low everywherePoor ground system, insufficient rodsAdd rods, improve moisture
Voltage drops far from energizerBroken wires, poor connections, poor groundingCheck splices, test ground
Livestock not respecting fenceShock too weak due to grounding or vegetationImprove ground, clear weeds
Energizer overheatingGround fault, bad rod connectionsRecheck clamps, rods

Maintenance Tips

Quick Checklist

FAQs

Q: Can I use just one ground rod?
A: Not recommended. Even small energizers need at least 2–3 rods for reliable performance.

Q: How far should rods be from buildings?
A: At least 50 feet, to avoid stray voltage entering water systems, barns, or wiring.

Q: Do ground rods wear out?
A: Yes, corrosion reduces conductivity. Replace rods every 10–15 years or if testing shows poor performance.

Q: How often should I test?
A: At least once per season, and always after major drought or freeze.

Grounding is the most overlooked part of an electric fence. Done poorly, it weakens shock and wastes money. Done right, it makes your fence strong, safe, and long-lasting.

A strong ground means a strong fence.

How to clean your sprayer properly to protect crops, equipment, and yourself

Sprayer cleanout prevents residue carryover, crop damage, clogged parts, and equipment corrosion. Doing it right helps avoid costly errors. Always follow the label instructions of the chemicals you used—and the ones you’ll use next. Use this guide for standard cleanout steps, then adapt to your particular tank, sprayer model, hoses, booms, nozzles and chemicals.

Why Cleanout Matters

Safety First

Before starting cleanout:

Equipment to Inspect / Remove Before Cleanout

Step-by-Step Sprayer Cleanout Procedure

Use these steps as a strong general guide. For certain herbicides or products, label instructions might require more or different actions.

StepAction
1. Spray Out Residual ProductAs soon as spraying is done, spray out whatever mix is left in the tank, hoses, and boom. Don’t let the spray mix sit.
2. Rinse with Clean WaterPartially fill tank (e.g. ~10% of capacity or more per label) with clean water. Recirculate the water through the system: pump it, run it through booms, hoses, nozzles. Spray some of it out through the boom.
3. Remove and Clean Screens, Strainers, Nozzles & FiltersRemove these components; soak/clean with water + mild detergent or specified cleaner. Inspect for damage. Clean or replace as needed.
4. Add Cleaning AgentSet up the tank with water plus a cleaning agent (commercial tank cleaner, ammonia solution, detergent etc.), according to product labels. Stronger agents may be needed for stubborn or oily/herbicide residues.
5. Agitate and RecirculateRun the sprayer’s agitation, operate pump, flow cleaning solution through hoses and booms for several minutes (often 5-15 minutes). Ensure all components are addressed.
6. Soak / Let StandAfter agitation, allow the cleaning solution to sit inside tank/lines for some time (several hours or overnight if possible) so residues loosen.
7. Spray Out / Flush CleanerSpray the cleaning agent solution through the boom and nozzles. Then drain. Flush with clean water to remove cleaning solution. Repeat rinse until water is clear with no visible residue.
8. Final RinsingMultiple rinses are usually more effective than one big rinse. Run clean water through all lines, hoses, booms, filters, nozzles. Check that no residual cleaning agent remains.
9. Clean ExteriorWash outside surfaces: tank interior lid, tank walls, boom exterior, pump seals, valves. Residue or drift can stick outside too.
10. Reassemble & Store SafelyPut screens, tips, nozzles back. Check all fittings. Store sprayer in appropriate place. Protect from freezing if relevant.

Special Considerations

Common Cleaning Agents & When to Use Them

AgentPros / UsesWarnings / Limitations
Commercial tank cleanersFormulated for both water- and oil-soluble chemicals; good general performance. Performance often best for oily or stubborn residues. Cost; need correct mixing ratio; some cleaners may be harsh to materials if left too long.
Household ammoniaHelps with boosting pH, dissolving some residues, especially certain herbicides. Do not mix with bleach or materials containing ammonia + bleach. Ammonia alone does not deactivate all chemicals. Follow label.
Detergents / SoapRemoves oily emulsions, helps clean filters, nozzles; mild on materials. May not be enough alone for tough residues; might leave foam; can interfere with some chemical residues if incorrectly used.
Bleach (sodium hypochlorite)Can deactivate certain herbicides; useful for heavy contamination. Strong; can damage some materials; reactive with ammonia; safety hazards; dispose carefully; follow label.
Alkaline or high-pH cleanersSome formulations elevate pH significantly, improving solubility of some hard-to-clean residues. Can corrode metals or degrade seals/gaskets over time; must be compatible with the equipment.

Typical Cleanout Workflow

Here’s a typical timeline for a cleanout when switching from herbicide A to chemical B or before spraying a sensitive crop:

  1. After finishing spray, immediately spray out mixture from tank/boom.
  2. Rinse tank with clean water (~10% capacity), run through boom, hoses. Spray out.
  3. Remove filters, strainers, nozzles. Clean separately.
  4. Add cleaning agent + water (as per chemical label). Agitate & circulate for ~10-15 mins.
  5. Let sprayer sit (tank + plumbing) overnight if possible.
  6. Spray cleaning solution through boom. Drain.
  7. Rinse with clean water several times, through all lines. Ensure everything is clean; check clarity.
  8. Clean external parts (boom, tank lid, pump housing).
  9. Reassemble, test operation, check for leaks.
  10. Dispose of rinse/waste properly.

Be Aware of Problem Areas / Common Mistakes

Maintenance Between Cleanouts

Checklist You Can Use

Before spraying next crop, tick off:

Legal and Label Guidance

Case Study / Example Scenarios

Here are a few common situations and how cleanout should be handled in each:

ScenarioRecommended Adjustments
After using a strong herbicide like dicamba / 2,4-D and then spraying sensitive broadleaf plantsUse the most aggressive clean-out path: strong tank cleaner + multiple rinses + overnight soak; clean every hose, tip, screen; test a small batch before full field.
Daily reuse of same product, same cropBasic flush + rinse + filter check may suffice; still good to do a full clean periodically.
Spraying oily or emulsion-based formulationsUse detergent cleaners; ensure surfactants dissolved; rinse until no film remains; possibly use hot water if safe.
Equipment used infrequently, stored long timeClean thoroughly before storage; dry if needed; check seals after storage; flush again before use after long rest.

FAQs

Q: How many rinses are enough?
A: At least two rinses with water + cleaning agent, then several rinses with clean water until all residue and cleaning agent are gone. Many guides recommend triple-rinse.

Q: Can I use just water if I sprayed a mild chemical?
A: Sometimes yes, especially for simple or low-risk products. But water alone often cannot remove residues that have adhered or dried. If you skip cleaner, risk of residue carryover increases. Always check label.

Q: Is soaking overnight really necessary?
A: For many products, yes. It allows residues to loosen. If time doesn’t allow, longer soak or more rigorous rinse may reduce risk.

Q: What about cleaning the exterior of the sprayer?
A: Don’t skip it. Residue outside tank/booms/pump can lead to contact exposure, drift, runoff. Clean tank lid, boom arms, fittings.

Summary

Proper sprayer cleanout:

Follow label instructions, use correct cleaning agents, be thorough on all parts of the system, dispose of rinse water properly. A little effort before spraying can prevent big problems and financial losses later.

First-generation farmers view their livestock like their pets. While that is charming, it causes some interesting questions when they visit Circle S. I’ve lost track of how many times, I’ve had a bright young person ask me why they can’t give their livestock pet food.

Your dog, cat, goldfish, hamster has different dietary needs than livestock. While you might see a horse grazing on grass, it doesn’t mean that Mister Ed is ready to mow your lawn. For that, you would need John Deere or an ornery goat.

Even grass must be carefully prepared, processed into hay and then blended into a rotation to properly supplement a diet. All your cat needs for you to do is dish out the Whiskas and get out of its face.

The reason you don’t treat your livestock like your pets is that a horse the size of your Uber needs a little more consideration than your 10-pound Pomeranian. Forget all of the Science Diet and recommendations from your vet. The little guy you take for walks around the block doesn’t require the same daily movement just to eat. Don’t believe me?

When you go driving this week, look at the local farms. All of that space that isn’t used for direct farming isn’t for showing off.

livestock feed

The more industrious farmers can mill and mix their own livestock feed. However, it’s not recommended. Does that mean it is impossible? Of course not. What we’re saying is that most of the people asking about making their own livestock feed, don’t have the time or resources for the commitment. But, if you want to go down this path, here are some options available.

Free-range grasses work best for animals such as horses and cattle. That means you will need to be able to rotate pastures. If you can’t rotate pastures to produce enough feed, then you must buy hay. That can get expensive and you might not always be sure what kind of hay you’re buying.

Pigs are the easiest for producing your own livestock feed. Like most of the smaller livestock options, you don’t have to worry about space. Feeding pigs usually requires making use of the scraps and related tidbits you already have on your farm. Barley, wheat and soybean remnants can be scrapped together and broken down into a baseline feed. The catch is knowing how much each size of pigs needs to chow down.

livestock feed

Chickens need a very fine grain. After all, our little feathered friends don’t have teeth. Still, these little guys will graze on a wide variety of grain. Even with that, your chickens should still be supplemented with a good mix of grains for a balanced diet.

But, what do you do if you’re out of farm space to make your own feed? As mentioned before, you can start getting into the pricey hay buying race. Yet, what happens if Farmer Brown treats his hay with chemicals? What happens if you buy a bad batch of hay?

Then, the effort to mill and mix your own livestock feed would be for not. You could still make your own if you have the space and time but take it from your livestock management friends. Stick to a known supplier that can keep your livestock well-fed and happy.

It’s every farmer’s dreams to have a large herd of livestock. Images of cowboys moving large amounts of cattle fill the heads of those toiling to make sure that this year’s newest critters get fed. Yet, all those dreams take a great deal of space to keep large herds happy and grazing. That’s right, fellow farmers. It’s going take wide open spaces for your livestock to feed.

Circle S Farm Supply realizes that not every farmer is working with a large swath of land. However, large herds of livestock need to roam, graze and possibly have rotated feeds. Even if you don’t make your own feed, you still must find a dedicated supplier to keep your livestock well-fed.

livestock feed

Even when you check off all those boxes, there still must be a set schedule to keep the livestock fed. That’s why we recommend hay rings and hay savers. Not every farmer can be out in the pasture making sure every herd eats right.

But, what you can do is buy one of our Bextra hay savers and make sure that the amount of feed is properly regulated. That’s right, farmers. Much like your stubborn house cat or littlest grand kid, you’ve got to keep an eye on how much your livestock eats.

Livestock management requires a few basics when it comes to feed. Yet, there always seems to be issues with feeding them. Most farmers write this off, as part of their daily workload. However, Circle S wonders if there is an easier way of handling this sort of thing.

Hay Rings are easy to construct and fantastic time savers.  Just two pieces being snapped together will give you the means to feed your livestock. They’re portable and easy to construct. If that wasn’t enough, you also have the Bextra Heavy Duty Hay Savers. These metal creations will keep livestock from tearing apart your food dispensers.

Still, Circle S Farm Supply wonders if you’re forgetting to feed your crops. It goes beyond just watering and throwing fertilizer on them. How are you treating your soil? Have you thought about it?

Where does your farm need to feed?

Circle S Farm Supply is well known for its liquid plant food. That’s a supplement designed to better support your plants in the hot sun. However, our liquid fertilizer is designed to prime the dirt to help retain nutrients. The two factors working together will create a circle of trust that will keep your crop from withering and dying on those 100-degree days.

To the average farmer, most of this might sound silly. You know that you need to protect livestock feed. Also, you’re aware that you must treat plant food and fertilizer as two separate things. If there’s a lesson to be taken away from today’s post, it’s that you need to stay aware.

Staying aware of your ideal surroundings is essential to the successful farmer. It’s one thing to know that you’re hungry, but how will you meet the feed needs of the farming components? The balancing act is pretty intense, but one well worth engaging in for greater success.

Plant Food remains the greatest tool for prolonging your farm’s life.

While that might be a bold statement, hear me out. Fertilizer primes the soil and is ubiquitous. Every farmer worth their name knows what level of NPK they need to bring their crops to fruition. But, what about the plant food portion? You do use plant food, right?

liquid plant food

Plant Food is that layer of defense between your prime crops and the elements. While the spring makes for a fun and fanciful planting season, you never know what the summer brings. The possible heat will dry up the water/nutrients in most crops. But, what about excessive rain and flooding?

Your water table can handle a degree of water. But, too much will eventually wash away the nutrients that your crops need to survive. What are you to do to ensure the survival of your crops?

Enter Plant Food

At Circle S Farm Supply, we serve up some of the best liquid plant food in America. Those little droplets of crop goodness are delivered to you by the expert hands at Circle S. What this liquid gold does is seep into your targeted crop areas to feed and shield your plants from the unpredictable troubles of the outside world.

Plants left untreated by Circle S Farm Supply’s liquid plant food will face extreme distress. An untreated plant can exist for 10-14 days outdoors without needing plant treatment. Yet, you don’t always have the time as a farmer to pay attention to sub-sections of plants while ignoring the overall farm production. You’re not a florist.

Liquid plant food buys you that extra time to save crops and manage the continued life of your plants. On paper, that might not sound that beneficial. However, hard working farmers will understand the difference that a little extra time makes after riding a combine through 100-degree days and no air conditioning. Contact us anytime! Circle S is here to help.

NPK and beyond: What’s in your fertilizer?

All plants need Nitrogen, Phosphorus and Potassium to grow. Most farmers can take soil reads and get a sense of what they’re missing. But, what goes beyond NPK? Are you offering the right fertilizer to your soil?

NPK fertilizer

Fertilizer does move beyond NPK.

But, do you know the other organic elements included in your liquid fertilizer? Now, it’s time to examine what makes the treatment so special for your crops. After all, if most NPK fertilizers just handle the big three, what is to be gained by adding the others?

Some of the additional elements included in plant growth are:

Magnesium – part of all chlorophyll, essential for photosynthesis.

Calcium – general plant vigor and growth.

Sulfur – promotes protein

Iron –  helps form chlorophyll

Boron – aids in production of seed and fruit development

Zinc – transforms carbs, regulates sugars

Copper  – reproductive growth

Manganese – helps with enzymes, breaks down carbs

Molybdenum – helps with nitrogen

Chlorine – aids metabolism, essential for photosynthesis.

Cobalt – essential for nitrogen fixation in young plants.

What does it mean to move beyond NPK in your fertilizer?

Every farmer wants to have a bountiful harvest. As a result, you do everything in your power to create the best environment for your crops to succeed. If you have any questions, reach out to Circle S Farm Supply.

Livestock Management is the farm tested art of keeping your animals happy. It’s also the practice of keeping your farm animals from busting out and tearing up your property. Everyone that works in Ag has had to track down a horse, cow or even a goat that busted out of their pen. Wouldn’t it be easier to have modern options to keep those critters locked down?

Look no further than your friends at Circle S Farm Supply. Circle S features the latest and greatest from Stay-Tuff and Gallagher. Have you seen the new Gallagher Power Fence products? How about those Galvanized Corral Panels and Grates?

It’s ok, pal. You’re among friends that love talking livestock. We are part of a field that gets to work with our hands, nurture a bounty of farm animals and produce the best crops that the Good Earth has to offer. It’s only natural to be excited about the tools that we get to use.

livestock management

The aspect of livestock management that so many forget is Livestock feeding. After all, if you’re going to manage living creatures, you’ve got to keep their stomachs full. Heavy Duty Hay Rings are in-stock at Circle S Farm Supply. These hay rings allow busy farmers to feed large amounts of hay to their cattle without having to constantly be in the middle of the feeding.

If you want something a little heavier duty, Circle S also sells the Bextra Heavy Duty Hay Savers. The purpose is the same, as these hay feeders exist to keep cows and farmers happy. Circle S Farm Supply is ready to help you upgrade your livestock management. Contact us to learn about all the wonderful things you can do for your livestock.